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Noise insulation 2108 with your own hands

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Noise insulation 2108 with your own hands

The driver, sitting in the car, starting the engine and turning on some music, it would seem that he must renounce all extraneous sounds and, focusing on driving, plunging into blessed silence, violated only by his beloved melody. But no! From nowhere, the noise of a working engine, a creak of the suspension, rattles from the side of the dashboard, doors and even the trunk burst into the salon. And the music included through a powerful subwoofer begins to interact with the upholstery in terms of rattling almost the entire cabin. It should be noted that all these extraneous sounds, except for unpleasant sound sensations are not so harmless. After all, noise and creaks are a consequence of mainly poor -quality fastening of details leading to increased wear, aging of details and is the root cause of their corrosion. The process of soundproofing consists of a whole set of measures to eradicate vibrations and noise, which includes work in the engine compartment, salon and trunk of the machine.

Before starting work, it is necessary to dwell on the choice of materials that are divided into sound insulators (reminiscent of sheets of thin foam and not only absorbing noise, but also actively holding heat) and absorbing vibration (representing 2-3 millimeter sheets of special plastic and not allowing details to resonate). As a rule, all these materials have an adhesive layer. After applying to the surface, the layer is warmed up by a construction hairdryer with a heat heating temperature of 50 degrees. Some car owners, trying to save money, use a regular self -adhesive rolled sealant. In addition to the fact that its quality loses to the quality of the listed materials, such a coating in terms of ecology is not accurately.

So, we start with a hood insulated with a sheet of a special foil, which is attached to it. Next, isolate the frontephlet shield with a bitoplast (polyurethane foam, saturated with special additives and having a sticky layer).

The next line of the cabin and doors. They are completely disassembled until the removal of upholstery, seats, etc. P. Factory vibration isolation is removed using a spatula. The soundproofing material of the bottom of the cabin (depending on its condition) is usually left. After removing all the factory components, the purified surfaces are degraded. The lower doors cavities are poured with dense material that prevents corrosion and reduces the string of doors. The internal parts of the doors are glued with vibroplast on the principle of “oil porridge”, that is, you need to process all the surfaces as much as possible. With chopped strips, it is necessary to glue the inner cavity (to the cable opening the door) on the principle of gluing the wallpaper, gluing and smoothing each strip. The outer panel of the door is pasted completely with the help of entire sheets in order to create a volume during the operation of frontal speakers, for which a hole is made at the site of installation of the dynamics. The roof of the cabin is processed according to the same principle as the doors.

The luggage compartment is the last stage. The arches have a complex configuration, therefore, for a tight fit of vibroplast, you have to make cuts in it, paying special attention to the integrity of the paintwork. The external and internal surfaces of the sidewalls, the back and the middle racks are glued in the same way. The side cavities (rather voluminous) can not be sealed, and if you fenced them with plywood, they can serve as corps of subwoofers (for those who do not want to sacrifice a trunk). That’s all, the process of soundproofing 2108 is over with your own hands. To fix the result, you can re -smooth the pasted sheets, warming them with a hairdryer.

It remains only to assemble the structure and enjoy high -quality, without interference, the sound of sound equipment, not being distracted by knocks and creaks.

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